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The Burro and the Pickle (A taste of Mexico 2004)
It was a snowy cold January evening in the Rocky Mountains
. The cavers had packed the Burro (a 93 F150 4x4) with the necessary
supplies to complete the long journey. Like an old Burro the truck sagged
under the load but regardless began to work its way south towards the
Mexican border and beyond. Minutes, hours and then days passed. They
had arrived at San Bartolome Ayautla (The place beneath the clouds),
home of their friend, Enrique, and his family. They rented a secure room,
distributed baby clothes to local families and prepared for the days
that followed.“I
don’t want a pickle” Arlo Guthrie
The morning found the duo clinging to the back of a small pickup truck
as it made its way up the mountain. Their destination was the Rio Santo
Domingo Canyon. In the canyon lay the resurgences to several large cave
systems. Arriving at the put-in at dusk,
A bridge just outside of Quiotepec, the pair inflated the pickle. The
pickle was the nickname given to a bright green, whitewater raft that
would accompany them on their journey. They floated just past town and
made camp. The following day was windy. They ran several rapids and portaged
another. Then one of them hit him-self in the eye with a backpack frame.
Blood profusely poured out of the right orbit. This could have been bad
due to their remoteness, but it turned out to be only a lacerated eyelid.
They were both getting a little sick but happy nonetheless. The third
day on the river proved a little more sporting. They had agreed at the
start of the trip that because they were a small team in a remote, basically
un-known River, it would be best to err in favor of safety and portage
any questionable rapids. Several times one of the pair would insist the
rapid ahead could be ran. Several times the other would talk him out
of it. I think we can make it said one. The other shook his head. “Dude”,
he said, “I don’t know”. Finally machismo, or perhaps
stupidity prevailed. Gently easing into the channel the current quickly
grabbed a hold of the bright green boat. They made an attempt to back
paddle but the force of the water quickly enveloped them and pushed them
over a two-meter high drop. Things soon turned from bad to worse as the
inflatable vessel hit a rock, then flipped the pair like morning hotcakes
into the boiling froth. Most white water enthusiasts know to keep their
feet down river as to bounce off the rocks with their legs instead of
their heads. The river had different ideas, and shot them like arrows
headlong into the next rapid, up and over some large boulders and again
into the current. They were both fortunate to find refuge on a branch
sticking up out of the water. What’s more miraculous is that they
still held onto their paddles. From their vantage it seemed as though
the bobbling craft was caught upstream in a tug-o-war between water and
rock. The dry bag was still securely attached to the boat like a giant
yellow leach. They soon determined that one of them must try to retrieve
the boat while the second would remain on the tree like a near drowning
rat just in case the boat should work itself-free. Swimming up river
was out of the question. The only possibility was to swim across the
river at a downstream angle towards the opposite shore. From there one
would have to hike back upstream and approach the boat from upriver.
This of course involved chancing swimming the last set of rapids all
over again. Carefully picking his way along the opposite shore and testing
the waters depth with his paddle, one of the men was able to work his
way to the boat. A good nudge and the boat were free. The swimmer quickly
threw himself onto the boat and prepared him-self for the rapid he had
swam some minutes before. Safely passing the obstacle, he had one last
goal, picking up a hitchhiking river rat. Onward they descended. They
would take unwanted baths two more times before their journeys end. First
they must pass by the resurgences of both the Cheve and Huatla cave systems,
Respectively #1 and #2 on the deep caves of the western hemisphere list.
Downward further still the water from the many limestone springs greatly
increased the amount of river water and turned the river’s water
a clear aqua marine color. A person can’t help but let their eyes
glaze across the remote rugged landscape in wonderment. How many uncharted
leads are waiting to be found? It sends the imagination reeling. In some
places the river cuts canyons with sheer cliffs some hundreds of meters
high. Since the start of the river trip the two been sick. Vomiting mixed
with an evil dose of Montezuma’s revenge. They had lost the last
page of their map to a mal intent wave but approximated that they must
be nearing Ayautla. They were weighing their options as they passed under
a swinging footbridge that crossed the river some five to ten meters
overhead. The bridge meant there was a good trail, and good trails generally
lead to people and towns. They maneuvered the pickle into an eddy and
onto a sandy shore. The day was still young as the pair rolled up the
heavy boat and attached it to the backpack frame.
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